“If you have a big dream you can make it. So you have to dream on a big scale. Martin Luther King said that he dreamt one day his kids would be appreciated for their character, their knowledge, not the colour of their skin. Forty years later we have a black president. So you have to think and fight for the big things. The dreams should be huge. Of course you can dream to have a bag, but that's a small dream.”
- Franca Sozzani
I want to take a moment, to honour the life and works of Franca Sozzani, the previous Editor in Chief of Vogue Italia, for 28 years. Perhaps it is odd, to write a blog feature about a woman who so openly disliked the blogging trend.
I like to imagine though, that had we met we would have found lots to talk about.
It certainly felt like fate, that 3 years after her passing I found myself sitting in her bedroom (as told by her son, Francesco Carrozzini), in what was her Marrakech home.
As I sat with friends, drinking vodka from the open bar & listening to the sounds of loud music and laughter; we admired her luxurious silk bed linen and shared several feelings. 1) Is this terribly perverse? 2) This space is so magical, this woman had great taste. 3) I think Franca would really enjoy this party! We are fortunate enough to work with some great, creative personalities in Marrakech. Recently we have been sourcing for and alongside a team of crazy cats who have consequently fallen in love with and purchased Casa Franca. There exists an intention of using it to promote and enjoy the arts of the world. It is partly due to this that we found ourselves as a central pin in the opening event; particularly Mohcine, who took on a key role in planning aspects of two parties, over one weekend (including private transport for hundreds of guests). There was such a great buzz around the weekend, and we were thrilled to be a part of it. In 1988, Sozzani was designated the role as Editor in Chief of Vogue Italia - and it was a position which she did not take lightly. As an Italian woman with a traditional and patriarchal father; she had grown to understand that you do not incite great change as a woman, by simply conforming. Her vision was bigger than her reality. She wished to carry Vogue Italia into an international spotlight, transforming it from an Italian fashion magazine to one which would be admired and appreciated globally. Her approach was exactly that, transformative, and she held this position with the ability to bring forward fresh and innovative prints until her death at the age of 66, in December 2016.
Vogue Italia Cover November 1980 Vogue Italia Cover July 1988
Carol Alt by Renato Grignaschi. Robin Mackintosh by Steven Meisel.
In July 1988, Sozzani published her first issue of Vogue Italia and immediately delivered on her promise to be "extravagant and innovative". On the front cover, the words simply read "Il Nuovo Stile". The bold statement only emphasised by a visual image of Mackintosh wearing a plain white Ferré blouse in sepia tones. Visually a strong contrast from the previous Vogue Italia cover format, which always featured a short range, beauty shot in colour with bold technicolour font overlaid. The first cover sent out a message, that Sozzani was doing things her way, and would make it work.
Make it work, she did. In chasing her vision for both her own career and the visual aesthetic of the magazine, she elevated Vogue Italia to new heights. It can be said that she was responsible for giving the magazine an international reach and it's huge impact in the world of fashion.
During her career, Sozzani was an advocate for the power of imagery in making social impact. Using a team of talented artists, carefully constructed photoshoots and magazine print imagery she provocatively highlighted controversial and current world politics.
Sozzani's strength of character was so determined, one might wonder how she contained it all inside a 5"9 frame. Certainly, she wore her exuberant energy on the outside in the form of beautiful garments; and her energy remains within the walls of her Marrakech home today. Apart from a fine layer of dust, which has settled and coated every surface in Casa Franca, one could be forgiven for believing Sozzani would walk into the room at any moment. You wont find publicised photos of Sozzani within her Marrakech home, or even out enjoying the sights of the city. A quick google search will bring up nothing, apart from the impression that Casa Franca was only an addition to her Estate and not her favourite home. The house however, gives a different impression completely. There is a finite attention to detail in the design of the home, which can only be the result of a labor of love.
Four riads combine to become a labyrinth of never ending rooms; each with it's own theme, combining traditional Moroccan artisan techniques with Sozzani's imaginative Italian styling. A dressing room, and a deep bath tub accompany every bedroom to create a feel of orientalist fantasy. The bed frames made of wrought iron, shaped into erotic symbolism. Fine antique silk throws and pillowcases cover the king size beds, with delicate silver embroidery on the edges which is now slightly tarnished. The famous mosaic pool stands in the centre of one of four internal courtyards; hand made with individual monochromatic tile pieces. For the purpose of this opening night, it becomes a stage which contains dance performers from Berlin. If you appreciate the art of the house, with it's 1990's high-end, Moroccan interior design; then it is difficult to get involved in any of the party entertainment. The music and social scene blurred into the background as we ran our hands along the beautifully crafted details of this architectural wonder. Perhaps the most magical thing to behold, were Sozzani's grand wardrobes, still stuffed full of incredible couture garments, bathrooms fully stocked with beauty products and a studio featuring works in progress. Evidence that Casa Franca served as a creative sanctuary for Sozzani. A total of 13 guest bedrooms, several lounges, a library, two kitchens and a gigantic roof top terrace, suggests that the house hosted many events and parties before ours. The space is totally set up for creative sanctuary, entertaining and unadulterated enjoyment. It is because of this that we felt comfortable with opening the space up once more for a night of beautiful energy.
We wait with excited anticipation, to see what the future brings for this gorgeous Casa and we hope that we will get to enjoy many special moments there.
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